It was off down the Oodnadatta Track which follows the old Ghan Railway to Coward Springs to cool off in an outdoor spa which feels very strange as we were back in the Tirari Desert and seeing trees wasn't too frequent let alone being able to soak in spring water.

Desert spa and the Beresford Station ruins

Heading further down the track we came across some planes standing up on their tails with no idea why. It was then past Lake Eyre which is one of the biggest salt lakes in the world and has been used to set land speed records and only holds water on average every 8 years. The water comes from all the areas to the far north of Australia a few thousand kms away and drains into the lake which is below sea level when there are huge floods and then it will sit for a few years until it all evaporates in the desert heat. It will be teaming with fish which hatch from eggs left in the mud under the salt crust and somehow the birds also know when it has water and fly a couple of thousand kms to eat and breed there before it all dries up again.

Strange planes and Lake Eyre South

After we got to the end of the track we went to Arkaroola where we did some of the best 4 wheeling I have done in my life. They had had a flash flood which cut them off until the water dropped and they didn't know what the condition of the 4WD tracks were like so we said we'd take a look for them. This place is set in steep mountain area and the track is often just the dry river bed. Well it was completely covered in rocks and boulders that had been washed down stream and made the going very tough but the challenge was taken. We were on our own now since Ken had gone home after Coward Springs to recover and get the XJ cleaned up before starting back at work. We climbed some cliffs on the Echo Camp Track that would be impossible to drive up if it were anything but this sharp rock face that gave a huge amount of traction.

Arkaroola Station

My wife and I had to dig out embankments of silt and sand and roll some rocks around and  work quite hard to get through at some of the river crossings. The scenery was breath taking as we climbed out of rivers and then up the side of mountains and cliffs to reach the top to a stunning view then to drop steeply down the other side and do it all again. It was all range stuff and I was glad I had the new diffs and brakes on the trailer to stop me getting pushed down to the bottom. We were nearing the end of this track to a section that had been driven from the opposite end so we knew it would be better from then on.

First one through after the floods

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