The interior of modern vehicles can be difficult to fit the accessories needed to make a good touring car, so this should give a few ideas where to place things along with some other modifications as well. Don't forget that this is a RHD, but doing it in the mirror image might work just as well.

White instrument background

Below are my gauges in metric measures.

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The gauges in MPH and imperial


This not only makes it easier to read but looks in keeping with the Sport model as well. To read the instructions and to obtain the file for $10.00 U.S., click here to order the file so you can make your own. I have made two versions with US measures with one the speedo out to 85 and 95 miles/hr  and another one to105 miles/hr with "Jeep" added to the tachometer. There is also a version that will allow you to convert all your 'imperial' gauges to metric. Please state which version when ordering. You can make the background color anything you choose by simple using colored gloss paper to print it on.

Stainless steel gauge surround


This is simply a stainless steel piece that just drops in over the top of your gauge surround. I was bought off eBay from Speedhut and just gives that area a lift. I have written a story on it here.

Carbon Fibre film


This is a film that I added to the dash panel to make it a bit more individual. I have more information and instructions on how I did here.

Subwoofer, fire extinguisher and CD stacker

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This is where I mounted the fire extinguisher and the 12 stack CD player. The stacker can be loaded from the hatch or the back door and is well protected with the wheel arch below it. I made the subwoofer enclosure out of 20 mm MDF with the back matching the angle of the seat so it took as little space as possible but still had the right volume for that speaker. The angled back is also good for the reflections along with the acoustic filling. Velcro strips are attached to the bottom and back to stop it moving around while still making it easy to remove. The amplifier is mounted under the dash behind the fuse box out of harms way with good cooling. If you build a bigger enclosure for a ported speaker you can place the amplifier inside because it will get air flow from the speakers pulsing. I chose non-ported because it needs less space and is more efficient at the low volumes I mainly listen to.

CB, brake controller and amplifier

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The CB was mounted here within easy reach and the mike mounted on the side of the console. The brake controller for the electric brakes on my offroad tent trailer was mounted next to it along with the amplifier behind the fuse box which you can just see above the accelerator. None of them have ever got in the way. The mounting of the aerial and wiring is shown here on this page.

OZ Trip computer, UHF CB and Temperature

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This is a trip computer that comes in kit form at $139 ($75 U.S.) back in 1999 or you can buy it assembled. It has 27 different functions in metric, imperial or US measures. It has things like a tachometer and speedo (which will be accurate even if yours isn't), three trip meters as well as distance to empty based on average or current consumption. You enter the capacity of your tank and then you can watch it disappear 100ml. at a time. It is very easy to wire in with only power, injector and speed pulse wires needed. For the full story on the install go to the write up here or for more information and to purchase it go to the company web site or email them. There has been some availability problems of this of late. I found a very impressive replacement that reads your codes and removes them if you have a 1996 or later running OBDII ECU. It just plugs into your OBDII port and will read all you gauges digitally as well as have the full trip functions. Go to Next to this is a 50 channel UHF FM radio that is used a lot in Australia as it is much clearer than AM. These units run at the 477 MHz which is unique to here and is also used by the police so I have the top 10 channels scanning their channels. This GME TX3400 has a remote head that you see mounted to the left of the computer and the main unit mounted to the far left behind the inside and outside thermometer.

Tyre Pressure Monitoring System


I have fitted this tyre pressure monitor ( TPMS ) which are sold under the SensaTyre brand here in Australia or SafetyPlus Brand in the USA. If you want to monitor your trailer wheels and as well, the Australian latest ones can monitor up to 14 tyres with the later model than mine where the USA one I have seen so far only does only 4. This system has an alarm that you set at which pressure it drops below to let you know. It also gives out a temperature reading of all tyres as well. This will be very useful for me and my Outback travels where it is very hard to feel a slowly leaking tyre due to the gravel roads masking the sound and sway. Version 4.2 also has a sand function that allows you to drop tyres pressures to 16 psi without the alarm sounding. Then just select to return to normal once aired back up.


I installed them myself by just breaking the bed using the another tyre and the vehicle weight. Just jack up the axle and slide the other tyre underneath it and remove the old valve core. I placed it on some old carpet to protect the underside of the rim. Then just lowered the jack until the bead broke. Some I had to help a little with a tyre lever. I only pushed down next to the tyre valve and left the weight on it so I could slide the sensor into place. Just make sure it does not catch on the sensor when taking the weight back off the tyre. I had some problems in taking a while to pick up some sensors as the Jeep is known to have a lot of electrical interference. But fitting a remote aerial under the car solved that perfectly and only take 1/2 a mile to pick them all up now.


I had worn the rubber down quite a bit on the right hand side of the brake as I often hit it with only part of my foot supported. By adding these pedal covers I could position it closer to the right so I have my whole foot now supported which gives better feel and control. I bought two sets so I could do the dead pedal as well to give a more balanced look. Of course it just looks that much better even if the above reason wasn't enough!

Drink cooler

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I have made this drink cooler to hold 6 bike drink bottles (750 ml.) and to be cooled by the cars air-conditioning that comes out of the back of the console. It is made from 3 mm. (1/8") aluminium sheet which I cut using a carbide tipped saw blade on a circular saw that is normally used for timber. You want to have a blade with fine teeth and have seen 10 mm. (3/8") cut using timber blades in industry with no damage to the blade. It is held together with small pieces of aluminium angle in the corners which are then riveted to hold the pieces together. I have lined the cooler with high density foam that sleep mats are made from and you can see that there are 4 small holes at the top to keep the air flowing and give the rear passengers their cooling. The cut away at the bottom of the legs are so you can easily lift it out and in. You need to bend the sides out so it sits flat on the floor as well as a bend in the base to let it come down from the vent and then sit flat on top of the transmission hump. The bends were done by clamping in a vice lined with wood and pulled over by hand. I have found this a great way to keep my drinks cool on the long drives we do in the heat of summer and it easy to reach from the front seat. I have since  covered it in matching trim to make it blend in a bit more. BTW, you can just squeeze in a 750 ml. bike drink container in the little horizontal shelf below the glove box and it will be cooled by the air-conditioning duct that runs behind. I then put a tea towel or cloth in front of it to keep the cold in. Next time you drive with the air-con on you can feel it with your hand. This duct also keeps the floor of the glove box cold while it is running and is a great place to keep your films. This is providing that the same setup is in LHD.

Ken's CD stacker

Before surround                 The surround

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Open                      Closed

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The back of the indent was cut away to allow the stacker to pass through all the way to the outside panel. Brackets were made above the stacker which attach to the metal frame above and behind the stacker. The surround was made from ply with the curved section made in thin layers glued together over a form and the whole lot covered in matching vinyl. The surround is attached by screws that pass through from the inside of the plastic panel and then into the surround from behind.