by Ben Cushing

1 set of FX-R projectors from The Retrofit Source
1 Bi-Xenon wiring harness from The Retrofit Source
1 set of ballasts and 1 set of D2S bulbs from The Retrofit Source
eBay 7X6 housing (plastic housing)
0.93” Acrylic or Lexan sheet (enough for 2 headlight covers)
1 Box EPDM Rubber Weather Seal 3/16”-5/16” (D Profile)
3M 3311 Foil Tape
3M double sided tape (1”)
 8, 8/38 x 1.25” size Screws, nuts, washers and lock washers (these will replace the stock retaining ring screws)
Dremel or equivalent tool with various cut-off and grinding wheels
High speed drill and various bits including a 3.5” metal cutting hole saw and penetrating oil
Tin snips
Wire Cutters, Crimp Tool and Electrical Tape
Jig saw with fine cutting blades
Drill driver
Calipers or equivalent measuring tool
Bubble Level
Air compressor or compressed air in a can


Note 1:  This write-up was done after I had finished retrofitting.  I dismantled much of the work in order to take pictures so not all of the steps have photos.
I strongly recommend before attempting this project that you go to the “University Section” at and become familiar with all aspects of installing HID lighting.  This is meant as a guide for someone who is already familiar with HID and would like to install it.  You should also have some good mechanical knowledge of your Jeep and it’s wiring.
Note 2:  Because the projectors are longer/deeper than your stock headlights you will need to remove your header panel and cut a 3.5” hole into the sheet metal behind to allow the projectors to fit.  It’s actually very easy to do and should not discourage you from taking on this project.  
You can do this step at any point in the retrofit however I recommend doing it early on so you can test fit as soon as you have the projectors ready to install.
Begin by removing the headlights, buckets, side markers and undoing all bolts and screws holding on your header panel (reference a Factory Service Manual if you have one)  You can use painters tape to support the panel and hang it and the harness off the bumper while you cut your holes.  I started by making a template for the 3.5” hole and centering it.   You will notice that a corner of the left and right hood latch assembly will be in the way of your cut. (see post cut pic)

This is fine and you will just remove the latches (see bolt at top right) while you cut and then replace them afterwards (make marks for the latch orientation and position exactly as removed being careful not to lose any of the washers/spacers.)
Once you have your center mark make a small pilot hole,  clear any wires behind where your cut will be made, attach your hole saw and apply cutting oil.  Cut hole, file down any burrs and paint with rust proof primer or POR15 to prevent future rust.  This a great time to add your bi-xenon harness and position your ballasts because you have excellent access.  Align and replace your header panel being careful not to crimp or stress any of the stock wiring harness or your bi-xenon harness.

Below you can see where I mounted the ballasts and harness.  Depending upon your battery size you may need to move it over about an inch to make room for the ballast to bulb connector.  This can be done by modifying the battery tray bolt holes to allow it to shift toward the engine or you can grind off  the battery tray edge (engine side) to allow the battery to be moved to the right about an inch.  It works fine and you are still able to use the stock battery hold downs without any problem.
There isn’t a clearance problem on the Drivers side but I removed the air box to show a possible mounting point for the ballast
on the ECU.
Start by removing all the hardware from the eBay housing.  Place plastic housing in 300*F oven on cookie tin for 5 min. 
Using oven mitts or gloves, remove housing from oven, remove glass from housing being careful not to let adhesive touch the chrome inside of housing.  Remove as much adhesive from the channel as possible with a flat screwdriver or any tool that fits in the channel.  If necessary, place housing back in oven for a few minutes to soften adhesive again to help facilitate removal until channel is relatively free of adhesive.
Using calipers, ruler, marker and some heavy paper create a simple template of the widest part of the projector noting it’s relation to the housing.   Place template on housing back making sure it is centered, use a sharpie to outline the template. 
Using appropriate hole saw cut a hole directly in the center of the back projector to give yourself a head start.
Using a Dremel tool with cut-off wheel and barrel grinder remove the material inside the outline made with the sharpie being careful not to remove any more plastic than necessary to fit the projector.


Back of housing                                                    3.5" hole cut to fit projector


Left side ballast location                        Right side ballast location

Tape up the lens of the projector with painters tape and test fit after every bit of cutting to assure the fit and that the projector is visually level.  You will want to have some slight rotational play in case you need to make adjustments later.   Once fitted, be sure the projector lens does not extend beyond the lip of the housing.  This is because the Lexan cover will be flush with the top of the housing.  
 Once you have removed enough material and are able to fit the projector easily use compressed air to remove dust and if necessary clean the housing gently using water and a cotton rag being careful not to scratch the chrome.
This is when you will want to clean the outside of your projector with IPA and use foil tape to seal up all possible exposed areas where dust or moisture might enter including the solenoid.
At this point you will want to level the projector in the housing.  Install a bulb in the projector and attach a ballast to your power supply.
Remove the tape from the lens, find a table that is level and point the projector toward a wall that you marked with level reference points.  Place a small level on the housing to check level and then using your sharpie, make orientation marks on the housing and projector when you find the cutoff level with the marks you made on the wall.
When your cutoff is level you can use the 3M tape to attach the projector to the housing while being careful not to change the orientation.  Add small pieces of foil tape to hold in place and then cover fully with tape being sure to cover all exposed areas including your solenoid wires (you want to lead them underneath and around the bulb holder.)  I chose to use 3M foil tape and not adhesive to seal up the housings at this time because I knew I may want to take then apart to adjust or to add a shroud.  These were prototypes and I had to make sure they would perform well before I made everything permanent.  So far so good…I will most likely seal up my next set with adhesive.



Projector fitted to housing                                                       Testing projectors


Level cutoff                                                Projector sealed with foil tape


Once you feel confident that your projectors are ready you can begin to make your clear headlight lenses.
Note:  Do not remove the protective film from the Lexan yet.
Begin by using the inside of the stock headlight ring to make a template.  Use sharpie to transfer template onto Lexan then using Jig saw cut each lens and test fit into headlight ring.  Use barrel grinder on Dremel to shave off excess until Lexan covers fit snug into headlight retaining rings.
Before attaching your Headlight Lenses use a Q-tip and IPA to clean the channel of the housing  being careful not to get any alcohol on the chrome of the housing. 
With the EPDM Rubber Weather Seal you can easily remove the Lexan Headlight Cover over and over without affecting the integrity of the seal.  This is an important feature because it means if you do decide to open the headlights you wont have to worry about removing and replacing a permanent adhesive.
Measure enough EPDM to fill the channel of the housing (see picture)  remove the backing, start at top of housing and press seal into channel firmly until uniform and the two ends meet.  Make a nice even cut allowing the ends to meet cleanly without overlap.  With another piece of EPDM of the same length you will want to apply in the same manner to the Lexan inside of the headlight retainer ring.  For this you need to remove the protective film.  I recommend having as much of a dust free work area as possible and do not touch the Lexan at any time.  You want to keep the environment as static free as possible until the lens is on the housing.  In the same manner, press the seal into place keeping it close to the retaining ring. Once this is done you can close up the headlights until you’re ready to attach them to the buckets.


Lexan lens fitted to headlight ring                    Housing fitted with EDPM gasket


Lens and housing ready to seal up                                Lens and retaining ring on

At some point you will need to modify your headlight bucket to allow the projector to fit properly. 
Place your projector into the opening and you will get an idea of how much and where you will need to remove in order to get the projectors to “seat” properly (see pic)
Note:  I originally drilled holes for the screws but determined they were not necessary.  Consider it optional.

It is by design that you have the projector sitting approximately 1” above the rim of the bucket.  This allows you to have more clearance on the passenger side to clear the battery. 
Begin marking the bucket with a sharpie and make the necessary cuts using tin snips and/or jig saw.  Finish off with Dremel, barrel sander, paint with rust proof primer.
It’s sort of trial and error so go slow, test fit often.  I used longer screws to attach the retaining ring / headlight housing to the bucket and secure with lock washer and nuts.  You can also apply Loctite if you wish.
Now your lights are a single unit and ready to be installed.  Before installing permanently make sure everything is hooked up properly, attach a ballast and bi-xenon connector to a headlight and make sure the lights come on and the high beams work.  It’s necessary for both projectors to have the high beam solenoid connected to the harness for them to work.  Repeat on other side then replace them exactly as you removed the original stock lights being sure to attach the retaining spring.
The last picture is how the projectors should look (unless you decided to add a shroud.)  I plan on building another set of
FX-R’s for another vehicle and will add a shroud and will add it a soon as I have pictures.
Using these instructions go aim your lights


Headlight bucket modified                Note gap between housing and headlight ring

Fully assembled


Picture with E-46-R shroud                        FX-R installed without shroud


Width                                                        Cut off and color


All retrofit components were purchased from The Retrofit Source and I can’t say enough about the quality of parts and the incredible service I received.  The confidence you get knowing your purchase is backed by a warranty and technical support makes for a nearly stress free installation.  Thanks to Matt at TRS for the great Parts, Service and Support.
Also, thanks to the knowledgeable people at for all the helpful information and advice.

If you decide to retrofit HID lighting into your vehicle you do so at your own risk.  I am not responsible for any damage to your vehicle.  Consult your local laws.  Adding HID lighting may not be legal in your State, County, Country or Province.


I’m happy to answer any questions regarding the conversion here: